Like many people, I own a copy of Butterick 5895, the Gertie Pattern consisting of a button up, tie front shirt and Capris. I have previously attempted the capris out of a stretch fabric, but forgot to do a full butt adjustment to the back pieces, so it was severely lacking in that area, and got shoved in a drawer in my sewing room and forgotten about. I decided it was about time to give it another go, so I pulled the pattern out, and chose a piece of polka dot denim fabric that I had purchased from an op-shop for $5.
Since I last made this pattern, I have also increased a few inches in my hip size. So I cut my pieces with an extra 2 inches at the side seams, plus I also did a full butt adjustment, by raising the centre back edge to give more coverage. I also added a second set of darts to the back pieces, to bring the waistband in a bit more snuggly above my butt.
I decided to make these a bit more like a traditional pair of jeans, by adding a fly front zip opening. I did this by adding a section along the centre front seam edge as I cut out the front pieces, then re-watching the little tutorial/animation from Series 1 episode 2 of the Great British Sewing Bee. I used a navy metal jean zip from my stash.
Once I had sewn the crotch seams and inserted the fly front zip, I sewed the inseams using a flat felled seam. I then pinned the sides seams, tried on for fit, then sewed the side seams, also used a flat felled seam. At this point I realised I still did not have quite enough coverage at the back.
I fixed that problem by cutting the back waistband pieces on a curve, with it being deeper at the centre back seam, and narrowing towards the side seams. The front waistband pieces are just straight rectangles.
I sewed the waistband pieces together, pressed them with the seam allowances folded in, then pinned them to the pants, and topstitched into place with a double row of top stitching. I had a look through my buttons to find a suitable button for the waistband. I was originally leaning towards a plain white button, but then decided on a white on white polka dot button from spotlight that I had. The hems were then pressed and top stitched in place with a double row of top stitching. Even though it was night time when I finished these, I took a few quick selfies to show the fit.
I am really pleased with how the back waistband sits. Look! No Gaping!
And here's a few fly detail shots:
As this fabric was not a stretch fabric, I have made these pants to have a relaxed fit, without being too baggy (I think) So they are quite comfortable to wear. Anyone else conquered pants recently?