Thursday, 22 September 2016

Polka Dot Pants!

Like many people, I own a copy of Butterick 5895, the Gertie Pattern consisting of a button up, tie front shirt and Capris. I have previously attempted the capris out of a stretch fabric, but forgot to do a full butt adjustment to the back pieces, so it was severely lacking in that area, and got shoved in a drawer in my sewing room and forgotten about. I decided it was about time to give it another go, so I pulled the pattern out, and chose a piece of polka dot denim fabric that I had purchased from an op-shop for $5.

Since I last made this pattern, I have also increased a few inches in my hip size. So I cut my pieces with an extra 2 inches at the side seams, plus I also did a full butt adjustment, by raising the centre back edge to give more coverage. I also added a second set of darts to the back pieces, to bring the waistband in a bit more snuggly above my butt.

I decided to make these a bit more like a traditional pair of jeans, by adding a fly front zip opening. I did this by adding a section along the centre front seam edge as I cut out the front pieces, then re-watching the little tutorial/animation from Series 1 episode 2 of the Great British Sewing Bee. I used a navy metal jean zip from my stash.

Once I had sewn the crotch seams and inserted the fly front zip, I sewed the inseams using a flat felled seam. I then pinned the sides seams, tried on for fit, then sewed the side seams, also used a flat felled seam. At this point I realised I still did not have quite enough coverage at the back.

I fixed that problem by cutting the back waistband pieces on a curve, with it being deeper at the centre back seam, and narrowing towards the side seams. The front waistband pieces are just straight rectangles.

I sewed the waistband pieces together, pressed them with the seam allowances folded in, then pinned them to the pants, and topstitched into place with a double row of top stitching. I had a look through my buttons to find a suitable button for the waistband. I was originally leaning towards a plain white button, but then decided on a white on white polka dot button from spotlight that I had. The hems were then pressed and top stitched in place with a double row of top stitching. Even though it was night time when I finished these, I took a few quick selfies to show the fit.

I am really pleased with how the back waistband sits. Look! No Gaping!

And here's a few fly detail shots:

As this fabric was not a stretch fabric, I have made these pants to have a relaxed fit, without being too baggy (I think) So they are quite comfortable to wear. Anyone else conquered pants recently?



  1. Love these! I recently made a pair of Style Arc Elle pants in red bengaline from Spotty. I just adore them - they are so comfy and stylish. Another pair has just jumped up the queue!

    1. Red Bengaline would be lovely! I may have to steal that idea from you.

  2. I have been putting off making something very similar! I have a smaller dot denim with slight stretch from spotlight and a capri style pattern from burdastyle. I've only done one front fly before and haven't tried pants that are so fitted. Every time I think I will cut into the fabric I chicken out, even though I think it will be a wearable toile and I have compared the pattern to my favourite jeans......

    1. Just go ahead and do it! I struggle a little bit with the fly construction, but I find the animation of how it all goes together from that episode of the Great British Sewing bee really helps. Plus, having a slight stretch will make it a bit easier to fit.